1 | Scribe separating point on rear fender (1) between Y-markings and cut (areas A and B). |
On vehicles with code (P98) Black Series, Y-markings are not present. Select separating point on in areas (A and B) by yourself. |
Scribe separation point for crimping flange offset approx. 10 mm from area A. |
Do not damage B and C-pillars below. |
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Dimensions: |
d | approx. 10 mm |
2.1 | Model 204.3 |
Do not damage longitudinal member below (area C). |
Transfer separation point from new part (area C). |
2.2 | Model 204.3 |
Do not damage longitudinal member below (area C1). |
3 | Expose spot welds on rear fender (1) and cut out (areas D, E and F). |
4 | Expose spot welds on rear fender (1) and cut out (areas G, H, H1, I and J). |
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5 | Cut rear fender (1) at separating point with window removal tool (area K). |
Rear fender (1) is bonded to outer rear wheel well (area K). |
6 | Heat rear fender (1) in crosshatched areas. |
Crosshatched areas are not bonded. |
Area of foam piece (arrow). |
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7 | Remove remaining adhesive from outer rear wheel well (area K). |
A maximum of 2 mm of adhesive residue may be left. Pull off loose adhesive material (remaining pieces which are not completely cut off). |
8 | Repair bare parts with touchup applicator. |
9 | Grind mating surfaces down to bare metal in the cross-hatched areas. |
Sand down spot weld flanges to bare metal on both sides. |
10 | Remove shavings and drill chips. |
11 | Coat insides of spot weld flange with zinc dust paint suitable for spot welding. |
Do not coat bonding surfaces with dust paint suitable for spot welding. |
12 | Crimp connecting flange on rear fender (1) toward inside with crimping pliers (area A1). |
Use crimping pliers for heavily accessible areas. |
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